GatosBros

KTM 450 - 530 Oil Pump Upgrade

As documented by

Hodakaguy

Difficulty Beginner

Expected Time 1.5 hours

June 14th 2011

Originally published on advrider.com

KTM 450 - 530 Oil Pump Upgrade

I recently read that KTM upgraded the oil pump gears and oil pump cover O-ring on the 2011 450 & 530 EXC/XC-W models and that some people have experienced oil pump/engine failures with the 2008-2010 parts. I figured it would be cheap insurance to order the updated parts and get them installed ASAP. Plus it would give me an opportunity to see exactly what they changed on the gears and by how much.

My '09 (2010 VIN) Champion model 530 EXC currently has 135.3 hours on it.

Update

KTM has recently updated the oil pump shaft with a superseded part number so I updated this how-to to include the shaft replacement. Also if you have a '08 model you will want to update your oil jet to the '09 and later larger jet for proper oiling. The 08's came with a 100 oil jet, the 09's and up came with a 125.

I recently sold my '09 and purchased a 2010 SixDays, I thought I would open it up to verify it had the updated oil pump gears/O-ring installed from the factory. My 2010 was built on 10/09 and I found it had the updated oil pump gears but not the updated oil pump O-ring or shaft. I installed the updated parts while it was open and took pictures of the shaft installation to add to the how-to below. If you have a 2010 you might want to add the oil pump O-ring for piece of mind.

Models Affected

450/530 EXC & XC-W's.

Updates Needed by Year

2008 Oil pump gears, oil pump cover, oil pump cover o-ring, oil pump shaft, oil jet
2009 Oil pump gears, oil pump cover, oil pump cover o-ring, oil pump shaft
2010* Oil pump cover, oil pump cover o-ring, oil pump shaft
2011 Updates are done at the factory... you're good to go!

*Actual 2010, not the champions edition with a 2010 VIN that's actually a 2009.

Tools You Will Need

  • Torque wrench in both in/lbs (for the smaller bolts) and ft/lbs
  • Clutch basket Holder Tool (Like this one. Note: This tool works, but not correctly on our baskets. You have to use the tool on the inside of the basket to make it work. Demonstrated at the end of the article.)
  • Misc hand tools; wrenches, sockets, breaker bar
  • Impact Gun is nice to remove the Clutch Basket Nut but not a necessity, you can use the Clutch Basket Tool and a Breaker Bar as well.

Parts You Will Need 
(2011 530EXC Referenced on Part#'s)

KTM Part NoDescriptionNotes
78030025000 Clutch Cover Gasket  
77332018000 Retaining Plate
Lock Tab For Clutch Basket Nut
Reinstallation is possible, but 
replacement is recommended.
0936181505 Hexagon Nut DIN0936-M18X1.5 R.
Clutch Basket Nut
Reinstallation is possible, but 
replacement is recommended.
78038103233 Oil Pump Cover CPL.  
0770320015 Oil Pump Cover O-Ring 32x1.50 Viton  
78038001017 Oil Pump Gear 17t  
78038001027 Oil Pump Gear 27t  
0799060000 Tab Washer Two needed
78038102100 Oil Pump Shaft  
0770440020 Oil Pump (Suction) O-ring  
57031523125 Oil Pump Jet 125 2008 only

Additional Supplies

  • Your favorite oil to re-fill the transmission with
  • Your favorite coolant to re-fill the cooling system
  • Shop Manual. Nice to verify you have everything in the right spot and order upon re-assembly. If you don't have a manual you can use the parts diagrams as reference.

Handy Torque Values


DescriptionTorqueSizeNotes
Screw, Torque Limiter 7.38 ft/lbs M6 Apply Loctite 243
Nut, Inner Clutch Hub 59.01 ft/lbs M18x1.5  
Screw, Clutch Spring 7.38 ft/lbs M6  
Screw, Clutch Cover 7.38 ft/lbs M6x25  
Screw, Clutch Cover 7.38 ft/lbs M6x30  
Screw, Kickstarter 18.44 ft/lbs M8 Apply Loctite 243
Screw, Oil Pump Cover 4.43 ft/lbs M5

Start by draining the transmission oil.


Drain the engine coolant.


Then remove the kick start lever, rear brake pedal, loosen the clamp on the water pump hose and slide back the hose and remove the bolts holding the clutch cover on.


I have a habit of laying the bolts out on a towel in the orientation that I removed them so I don't have to figure out which length bolts go where when you start re-assembly.


Slide off the clutch cover and set it to the side. Now remove the 4 clutch spring bolts, slide the clutch pack out and set it to the side. I like to grab the whole pack and slide it out as a unit, make sure you keep track of their order as all the parts come out.


Flatten the security tabs on the clutch retainer and remove the nut holding on the clutch basket. An impact gun works best but you can use the clutch basket tool and a breaker bar as well.


Here are the spacers that sit on the back of the clutch basket. These will remain on the basket when you slide the clutch packs off. Make sure you keep track of them and that they go back the same way during re-assembly.


Parts removed


Now that the clutch basket has been removed we can see the offending oil pump gears. Using a small screw driver remove the clips that hold the oil pump gears onto the pump shafts. Remove the washer and the gear from each pump. I'll be replacing the lower pump cover and O-ring as well.


With the gears out of the bike we can now compare the old gears with the new updated units. The new gears are thicker where they ride on the pump shaft, this should keep the gears running true and take out some slop between the gear and the shaft. Not sure if there is any difference in the materials used between the old and new gears. Here are the small 17 tooth gears.


You can notice a big difference in the large 27 tooth oil pump gear. This is the gear that gets driven off the clutch basket and transfers power to the small 17T oil pump gear. The loads on this gear are higher and it looks like they built up the surface area on the shaft considerably, as well as trapping the drive pin completely so it can't slip out.



Bottom view of the 27T gears.


Next I removed the lower oil pump cover and compared it with the new unit. This picture was taken when re-installing the new cover but shows where the cover is located.


I measured the old and new O-rings to compare the difference. I've read that the original cover/O-ring can fail letting oil get pumped from the engine side to the transmission or from the transmission to the engine depending on what side of the pump the O-ring fails on. Again cheap insurance to eliminate a problem while out on the trail.



Installing the new oil pump shaft: With the oil pump cover already removed slide the oil pump shaft and inner rotor out towards you. (Red arrow is the pump shaft, Blue arrow is the inner rotor).


Once slid out remove the pin and the rotor and set them aside on a clean cloth. (Blue arrow is the inner rotor, Red arrow is the pin). This is as far as the shaft will move in this direction, it will be removed from the opposite side of the engine.


Next go around to the other side of the bike and remove the suction pump's cover, the cover is located right behind the stator and shift lever. Remove the three screws holding the cover on and set the cover/screws to the side.


Once the cover is removed slide out the inner rotor and pin (Red arrow), set them to the side.


Remove the shaft from the engine.


Here's a photo of the old oil pump shaft and the superseded shaft. The new shaft is slightly longer, other than that I couldn't see any differences. Not sure if anything else has been changed, heat treating etc? The shaft is only $11 so it's worth it for me to have the updated part.


Install the new oil pump shaft in through the suction pump side. Oil the shaft before installing.


Once you have the shaft installed you need to start the re-assembly on the clutch side of the engine. (Do not install the suction rotor/cover at this time or you will have to remove it again).

Slide the shaft out on the clutch side and install the pin (Red arrow) and inner oil pump rotor (Blue arrow). Oil everything before installation. (If you had installed the suction side first it would have become disconnected once you pull the shaft to the clutch side to install the pin, forcing you to open it back up again to re-connect). Once the pin is installed push the shaft and inner rotor back towards the suction pump and align the inner rotor onto the pin. The inner and outer oil pump rotor's should be flush now.

*Note: You shouldn't have removed the outer pump rotor but if for some reason you had it out you need to make sure it's re-installed in the correct direction. The outer rotor has the mark (dimple) facing inward, the inner rotor (the one you removed with the shaft) has the dimple facing outwards.


Blue arrow shows the dimple facing outward on the inner rotor, Red arrow showing no dimple on the outer rotor since the dimple is facing inward.


Install the oil pump cover (red arrow) with updated oil pump cover O-ring and torque screws to proper torque.


Go back to the suction pump and install the inner rotor and pin back onto the oil pump shaft. Oil everything before installation.

*Note: You shouldn't have removed the outer pump rotor but if for some reason you had it out you need to make sure it's re-installed in the correct direction. The outer rotor has the mark (dimple) facing inward, the inner rotor (the one you removed with the shaft) has the dimple facing outwards.

Install a new Suction pump cover O-ring at this time. (Red arrow new O-ring, Blue arrow is the dimple facing out on the inner rotor...note you can not see the dimple on the outer rotor since it's facing inward).


Re-Install the suction pump cover and torque the screws to the proper torque. (I decided to add a little bling from the hard parts catalog while I was at it ). New cover installed.


New oil pump gears installed in the bike. The gears are noticeably tighter on the shafts than the old gears. I also ordered new retaining clips (KTM calls them tab washers) for each gear and the new clips were noticeably tighter on the shaft than the old clips (same clips as the old ones, just new and tight).


2008 Models Only

If you have a 2008 model replace the 100 Oil Jet with the updated 125 Oil Jet for proper oiling. Arrow showing location of oil jet under clutch cover.


I've been asked a couple times about how the clutch basket tool works when torquing up the inner clutch hub nut. Some people use a impact gun and just rattle down the nut....I prefer to torque the nut to proper specs using a torque wrench.

I purchased a TUSK brand clutch basket tool from RockyMountainATV but it doesn't fit the KTM properly. The tool can still work but you have to install it on the inside of the inner basket instead of on the outside like it should work. The red arrows show where to place the TUSK brand tool.


Use the foot peg to back up the tool (red arrow) while you torque the nut down with the torque wrench.


Now just re-assemble everything, torque up the bolts/nuts, refill the oil and coolant and hit the trails with piece of mind about your oil pump gears.